Painsford and the Washbourne Ridge
A circular walk from Harberton via Luscombe, Painsford, Bow Bridge, Harbertonford and Key’s Englebourne.
Distance 7½ miles/12 km. Total ascent 971ft/296m.
From Harbertonford the route starts at 6) or, for a shorter walk, head from there direct to Luscombe Cross or Beenleigh.
1. Starting from the centre of Harberton village head east to Broadstile Cross and take a look behind the stone stile. There is often a pit of mire. If so, continue on the lane and turn right at Fordbarn Cross. (If the mud has dried enough, take the marked footpath up over the field to a stile which emerges onto the lane. Turn right passing the entrance to Dundridge House). Then cross over the A381. As you approach Luscombe Cross reflect that your feet are treading an age-old way from South Brent to Dartmouth. This ancient granite guidepost stands timeless on the high ground marking another major route from Totnes to Kingsbridge - called Old Road here. Restored in 1895 with an unusual Celtic wheel-head, the post and octagonal plinth have stood since the C15th, probably replacing an 11th or 12th century cross-headstone post.
2. From the Cross, also known as Pennies Cross, head straight on by holly trees then downhill through shady cover to Luscombe and Prowse’s Luscombe. A sense of timeless otherworldliness pervades here. Near the letterbox at the staggered junction at Painsford Cross there are high hewn-out vertical banks either side of the lane. Pass beneath these and keep straight on steeply down the narrow lane to Beenleigh and the Harbourne River.
3. Just before Beenleigh Bridge enter the flood meadow through a stile on the left by the footpath sign. Here there’s a paddling spot for hot summer feet. Following left across the meadow we’re now beside water as far as Bow Bridge. Cross the little footbridge over the former sluice gate and leat. Notice the broken weir and then your woodland path continues downstream close between leat and river, and over another footbridge before the waters merge again just before a wooden gate. This leat once supplied two water wheels at Painsford Corn Mill. After milling stopped, about 1904, most of the leat was filled-in and our path now roughly follows its line as far as the lane by the former mill buildings where we turn right. After passing a shepherd’s hut and a charming conical wood pile you can just spot the line of the old leat, here largely dry, as it continues towards the former Corn Mill at Bow. In the past, between Harberton and Bow there were at least eight mills using the Harbourne as their power source. (Now we think installing just one Archimedes screw turbine in a river is momentous). Where the lane swings right opposite an old narrow track stands the old corn mill buildings.
4. Turn right at Bow Bridge Cross, walk over the bridge, keeping right at the Waterman's Arms. The red postbox in the wall dates back to at least 1885. From here, you're uphill for well over a kilometre, passing the ancient Yeatson farmsteads. After this, it's softer underfoot with the olden way climbing until you reach a sharp right. Here, ignore the footpath down the field to Lower Washbourne and continue gently up bending left onto the ridge. The climb is well worth it once you reach this commanding viewpoint and the impressive row of a dozen or so fine beeches lining one bank of this very old green lane. The local farmer says that once there were many more beeches - no gaps. Looking back from the beginning of the ridge you can just spot the Dart near Stoke Gabriel. Later, sweeping views over the Wash Valley display all the coombes, wooded hedgerows and old pastures that characterise the charm of this tranquil scene. A long gradual slightly overgrown descent takes you past the tiny Beenleigh Cross track junction but carry on down to the metalled road.
5. Turn right here for just less than 1km and before the main road at North Park Corner look out for a sign on the right and follow the unmetalled lane. It goes along and down, passing Zion Hill Chapel, a well-preserved example of a Georgian nonconformist chapel built 1799, now a private dwelling. At the A381 take great care as you descend. Vehicles are often in a convoy, so wait for a good gap. Preferably have something bright to wear for the few metres against the traffic before you can cross to the safety of the pavement on the other side.
6. At Harbertonford Bridge, turn right past the Post Office & Stores and head up Old Road, the top of which we encountered earlier. (Alternatively, for a longer route to Harberton, after the bridge take the left turn to Rolster Bridge and follow Walk No.4). At the Maryland fork, keep left and at Brockhills/Nkuku stay carefully walking on the grassy verge beside the A381 until you can safely cross over and take the Harberton turning.
7. After about 50 metres look out for a double stile on your left. Your footpath goes diagonally across the field and through an obvious gap in the hedgerow. After this, aim to the right of the first roof you see and then head for the stile just to the right of Wyse’s Englebourne building. At the lane turn left uphill and at the Key’s Englebourne junction turn right onto the green lane to Harberton. This part of the route to Harberton is described in Walk No.4.
July 2020